23 July 05 Today we got up early, had a great breakfast at the Hotel in Frauenstein and then drove back to Dresden. Boy, it sure is green and hilly around here, very nice scenery. I managed to fill the rental car with the right kind of gas, and dropped it off to the train station where we rented it. Then we took a short high-speed train to Leipsig (seems to be a university town). We found a reasonable hotel not far from the train station and then Adam and I split up for the day. I don’t know what he did, but I had an awesome day!!! First, I went to St. Thomaskirche (St. Thomas Church) where Bach was the organist for most of his life. Across the street is the house he lived in, with his 23 children. I managed to get tickets to go back there tonight for an organ recital at the Bach gift shop. We will hear organ music tonight, played on the same organ Bach played in the same church where Bach played. I went to the Bach Museum and the Musical Instrument Museums, both were located in the church. Second, I walked about a mile away, to the Mendelssohn Museum and after that walked even further to the Robert and Clara Schumann House. All were open with exhibits and original music manuscripts. It is interesting that both the Mendelssohn and the Schumann Houses are now music studios. The Mendelssohn House is regular music studio and the Schumann House is a kindermusik studio for young children.
I found this Internet cafe right by the hotel... speaking of which I need to meet Adam there right now...
The organs Leipsig - St Thomaskirche
Organ at St Nicolai Church
24 July 05 Today I got up early and went back to St. Thomaskirche for a 9:30 am service. I believe it is a German Reform Church. Both Leipsig and Halle seem to be the center of Protestantism here in Germany, in fact I think that the Dom in Dresden is the very church Martin Luther nailed his treatise to the door of. I will have to check on that. Religious study seems to prevail around these parts.
Anyhow, the service at church (Lutheran) was quite liturgical; there was a cantor and lots of music by Handel and Bach. They played the large Baroque organ at the service. There was a soprano soloist performing Handel and Bach with the organ, also a trumpeter with the organ. Lots of music and the service was over an hour and a half long... before communion. The "postlude,” a Bach Prelude and Fugue, was played during the close of the service and then there was a pause for people to leave before communion began. I took the opportunity to leave, since I needed to meet Adam back at the hotel.
23 July 05 postlude Well, I ended up going to two concerts tonight, one at 5pm, at St Nicolai Church and the other one at 7:30 pm, at the St Thomas Church. Both were churches Bach worked at. At the first concert I heard mostly Bach music and a fabulous piece by Mendelssohn played on an organ built in the 1800s. The Bach was amazing... the Mendelssohn was EXTRAORDINARY!!!! Mendelssohn actually was instrumental (no pun intended) in getting Bach’s music revived years after his death. Mendelssohn also did organ pieces based on Bach’s hymn tunes. It was interesting one of the pieces played was written by Bach using the tune “O God Our Help In Ages Past”. Then, later on in the concert, they played a Mendelssohn piece based on the same hymn tune...really neat!
At the second concert (Adam went with me) I heard a few pieces by other composers and then heard the rest by Bach. It was played on the Bach organ, a reconstruction of the original one he played... great clarity in tone... and the organist was incredible. He played one partita based on the chorale “Ah Holy Jesus” and then proceeded to play at least seven variations of the same hymn tune... Bach must have had fun writing that! It was so incredible to hear.
Tomorrow I will go back to the St Thomas church for services at 9:30am and we will spend the afternoon in Halle. Tomorrow night I will try to find the church where the Silbermann concert is Leipsig... then an overnight train to Innsbruck.
24th July pm We checked out of the hotel and headed to thestation, where we caught a train to Halle. There was some sort of kid’s festival going on outside of the station, which meant tons of people. But finally we made it to the city center, where we saw the Handel statue and the church where Bach and Handel both played. The Handel Museum was incredible (best part of the trip so far) and we took lots of pictures there. It was quite an interesting display. It seems that Halle considers Handel to be the hometown boy of renown, while Leipsig claims Bach. The Handel Museum allowed photos while the Bach museum did not. Both were born the same year, both in Halle, but while Bach never strayed far from Leipsig, Handel spent much of his life in Italy and England. Handel was wealthy and famous during his lifetime Bach was not. Both were truly gifted.
After the museum, we headed back to Leipsig. We have a 10pm train, it’s a sleeper and we will wake up in Innsbruck, Austria.
A statue of Handel in Halle
A photo gallery of the antique instrument collection at the Handel House